Salzedas and Ucanha consist of two villages in the Douro Wine Region, slightly further away from the Douro River. These must be visited together, since they are side by side (about 3km between the center of the two) and are connected by a Roman road, of which traces can still be seen.
Ucanha
Ucanha consists of a small village that begins with a courtyard where we recommend leaving the car, since the streets are uneven and narrow. Precisely because of this older shape, start by taking a walk down the traditional street - a large street that connects the entire village. Ucanha is one of the oldest villages in the region, and this walk allows you to feel exactly that. In fact, besides the fact that few people live here, the vast majority of them still work in agriculture.
After exploring the street and its traditional houses, head towards the Varosa River, where the most famous point of this small town is: the Ucanha Bridge and Tower.
Starting with the tower, which stands out in the landscape, it was built in the 15th century by order of an abbot. At its base is what many consider the most beautiful medieval bridge in Portugal (although there are a few competitors for that title).
The location of this bridge also symbolizes a strategic place, since it was the entrance to the ancient noble land of Salzedas and its monastery. It was on this bridge (and tower) that the passages were controlled, being charged on those who, coming from Ucanha, wanted to enter the couto of Salzedas, its neighboring town. This charge only stopped being made in the sixteenth century.
After this activity ended, the bridge continued to be used, but the tower was used only as a warehouse. Although it is possible to visit the tower, and have a free guided tour, we did not get a chance to do so.
During our visit, we quickly realized that this bridge is a very important place in the village and where many people gather. Although it was a colder day, we found dozens of fishermen and some braver people trying the waters of the river beach.
Besides looking extremely appetizing for a swim, when we visited this village (2021) the space was being renovated, with the addition of tables and other improvements, which will make it an even better place.
Salzedas
Salzedas itself has less to visit in the streets, but a great work that deserves all your attention: the Monastery. In the main hall it is impossible not to see the Monastery of Salzedas right away, with its imposing architecture. Arriving at the main hall, in front of the Monastery, and going left, we find a street that consists of an old Jewish quarter, that is, a group of houses from medieval times. However, this part is somewhat abandoned, with houses collapsing and in need of urgent restoration.
When you visit this village, you must visit the Monastery of Santa Maria de Salzedas, the focal point of Salzedas, and you have to pay 3€ to visit it. This monastery, belonging to the Cistercian Order, is also the most imposing building in the landscape. However, we must admit that we were a little disappointed with its interior.
Despite having once been one of the wealthiest monasteries in Portugal, this monastery was, at the time of our visit (2021) in a visible state of degradation. The church itself, which is in operation, appears to be well preserved. But as soon as we entered the part of the monastery itself we realized that it is in need of urgent intervention: empty walls, rooms under construction, lack of information and many other small aspects, such as pieces of stone lying on the floor, spotlights and even grilles occupying the corridors.
In addition, a part of the monastery is apparently private. Outside there is a separate door (with the respective indication that it is a private area), but inside the monastery, when you are in the main cloister, you can see the private part directly, giving you the feeling that you are in the wrong place when you are not.
In the end, the only thing the monastery really has to visit is the cloister (also in need of work, with several parts already partially destroyed) and a few rooms with some paintings, mainly with religious themes, and some furniture.
At the time of our visit, it was stated at the entrance that the monastery was undergoing restoration. Inside the cloister we did find scaffolding and railings that confirm this, but we haven't seen any restored parts yet. We are anxiously waiting for this beautiful piece of architecture to be restored so that we can repeat our visit and change the vision we had of a monument that is extremely imposing and grandiose, with so much potential after restoration.
It is also possible to visit the ruins of the old abbey, although it is further away from Salzedas and more on Ucanha. Located right in front of the Douro Cistercian hotel, it currently consists of some marks of where the foundations of the old abbey were, i.e. the first Monastery of Salzedas.
Having said that, Salzedas and Ucanha are mandatory stops for those visiting the region - Ucanha for its area under the river, where the bridge and tower stand out - Salzedas by the imposing facade of the monastery and its church. The interior of the monastery itself we are anxiously waiting for it to be restored so we can visit its interior in all its splendor.
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Douro Region
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